Blancpain is often celebrated for its groundbreaking Fifty Fathoms diver’s watch, but there’s another side to this storied brand that deserves the spotlight—its Villeret collection, a testament to traditional watchmaking mastery. And this is the part most people miss: while the Fifty Fathoms stole the show, the Villeret line quietly showcases Blancpain’s artistry in dress and calendar watches. Recently, Blancpain’s East 57th Street boutique in NYC hosted an exclusive cocktail event to unveil the new Villeret Golden Hour series, complete with a captivating panel discussion featuring Blancpain’s Global Vice President Alexios Kitsopoulos, North America President Leonardo Laviola, historian Jeffrey Kingston, and Hodinkee’s TanTan Wang.
The evening began with a sneak peek at 16 stunning timepieces from the Villeret Golden Hour series, including the sleek Villeret Ultraplate, the intricate Villeret Quantième Complet Phases de Lune, and the elegant Villeret Quantième Phases de Lune. But here’s where it gets controversial: while some collectors swear by stainless steel, others argue that the 18ct red gold cases paired with rich brown or opaline dials are the true stars of this collection. These watches aren’t just about looks—they’re packed with upgrades like slimmer lumed hands, openworked rotors, and alligator leather straps with quick-change functionality, blending tradition with modern convenience.
In his Hodinkee review, TanTan Wang highlighted the collection’s warm, inviting aesthetic, particularly the brown dials and red gold cases. He also praised the hidden under-lug correctors, a feature that lets wearers adjust the calendar without risking damage to the movement—a small detail that speaks volumes about Blancpain’s attention to practicality and precision.
The panel discussion dove deep into the Villeret collection’s legacy, tracing its evolution since the 1983 debut of the world’s smallest complete calendar moon phase complication at the time. Jeffrey Kingston, whose definitive history of the Fifty Fathoms is a must-read for enthusiasts, provided invaluable historical context and shared insights from his own journey as a passionate collector. Here’s a thought-provoking question: Does Blancpain’s focus on traditional watchmaking risk overshadowing its innovations, or does it strike the perfect balance between heritage and progress?
After the panel, guests had the rare opportunity to examine some of Blancpain’s most extraordinary high-complication pieces up close, from minute repeaters to tourbillons and jumping hours. Paired with cocktails and a closer look at the Villeret Golden Hour series, the event was a masterclass in appreciating Blancpain’s centuries-old legacy of horological excellence.
What’s your take? Do you think Blancpain’s Villeret collection deserves more recognition, or is the Fifty Fathoms still the brand’s undisputed crown jewel? Let us know in the comments below!
This event was produced in partnership with Blancpain.
